Voodoo Land

By Nico — February 6, 2010 | 5 comments

Cap Haitien, Haiti – Yesterday morning we left town for Cap Haitien. After three weeks, it really was time for me to see the real Haiti, the Haiti of before the 12th, the Haiti of the countryside, the Haiti of the past. I wanted to try to get a feel of what this country’s original vibe was, even if that’s impossible to do in a day. A good way to do this would be to go visit the northern regions of Cape Haitien where the history and origins of Voodoo took place.

We took the main road to the north, a road paved for maybe half of its distance.

Even on the paved sections, the car has to slalom between the vicious pot holes densely spread throughout.

For the first hours, we were crossing bare, dry, valleys. There truly is a deforestation problem in Haiti. The joke in the car was “look over there, there is a tree we forgot to cut down”.

To see some green and farming you have to reach the rice fields mid-way to the north. Suddenly things start to look very pretty, the landscapes of rice fields, coco trees and baked soil huts reminded me of southern India.

In the small towns outside of P-A-P the poverty is worse; the difference is that the buildings are standing and there is no food distributions. Donkeys and horses are still a prevalent mode of transport for the farmers.

This is what the rest of the Caribbean must have looked like 40 years ago.

Crossing the mountains was quite a challenge, as our tired car would continuously have its gas filter plugged by the dirty gasoline. Every hour Cyrilien would stop and try to inject fresh gasoline in the filter to unplug it. The worry was getting stuck out there at night, on the bandit-infested roads.

We made it to Bwa Kayiman just before nightfall. This is the most sacred and historical site of the Voodoo faith, where the voodoo ceremony that gave Haiti it’s independence was held on the 14th of August 1791 – the first “official” voodoo ceremony.

The prayer pronounced on that day went like this (translated from Creole)

God who like the sun lights us from above
Who raises the sea, makes the thunders growl
The god of the others is hidden in the clouds, he looks at us
He sees what the white man is doing.
He asks them to commit crimes,
Our god only wants the good.
Please good god of ours, let us avenge ourselves
guide our arms, give us strength
let us get rid of the white god
Let us listen to the freedom growing in our hearts

After Zaza, the high priest of Bwa Kayiman (Bois-Caiman) greeted us warmly, he led us to the historical cave were Brise, the main angel (loi) of the Voodoo faith resides. Brise is the most powerful “loi” after the god almighty (Zaza doesn’t talk about the God of the Bible here). Brise is the loi that gave the Haitiens the power to gain their freedom. Up to this day, government officials come to this cave for advice and guidance.

I’m told that normally a non-initiated foreigner wouldn’t be allowed near or in the cave. But they are so happy to see a foreigner show up, that Zaza makes an exception. With the economy collapsing, the people in the countryside are suffering more than usual. Haitians are used to dealing with aid agencies, and hope that containers of food and help will follow every foreigner they see. Zaza is eager to have the Bwa Kayiman site known: they need all the help they can get to build their community, have roads, power, schools, activities for the youth, and so on.

Zaza explains to me that Brise couldn’t protect Haiti from the earthquake, as this catastrophe came from the god above. Brise only takes care of the mystique of the Haitian people and Haiti itself, not of the stuff that comes from above and outside. If god above wants to judge Haiti, Brise can’t do anything about it. The “lois” are only angels sent by god.

I asked Zaza if he agreed with the idea that god himself made the earth tremble to punish the people. Zaza doesn’t know, but he knows that the “lois” have nothing to do with it; the “lois” are the Haitian’s culture and heritage, and should be respected. He notes that the people affected by the earthquake were Protestants, up to me to make my own conclusions.

I didn’t feel the need to publicize my views on religions, as a world without gods wouldn’t be a sane concept here. They already think I’m half crazy for coming all the way here.

When coming back from the cave to the temple, a big lizard followed us. Zaza told me it was a “loi” checking on what was happening here with this stranger and his camera.

It was time to start the music and dancing. This would last most of the night, until we had to hit the road again.

My lens and recorder had their best time ever, we got to meet the hardcore Haitians. Get a feel for the past and birth of this strong people.

Being exposed to the heart of Haitian mystique even for such a short time was definitely worth the exhausting drive.

The return was safe and smooth. The car worked perfectly and if we had to stop, it was only for me having to run in the bush with dangling toilet paper under the laughter of my friends.

Tags: Featured Haiti Music Nicolas Jolliet Voodoo Web Video